Route&Camp

Dordogne, France

Dordogne and Périgord by motorhome, campervan or caravan: 3, 7 or 15-day route

Castles above the river, golden-stone villages, prehistoric caves and the medieval town of Sarlat, in one of the greenest corners of France.

A castle of golden stone with pointed towers and red-tiled roofs below a wooded cliff above the Dordogne at La Roque-Gageac, with old stone houses on the right

How many days do you have?

Dordogne and Périgord in 7 days

Distance≈ 165 km
Stages7
DifficultyEasy
Best timeApril to June and September to October

From Périgueux through the valley of prehistory to Sarlat and the castles of the Dordogne, ending at the cliff village of Rocamadour: Lascaux, Les Eyzies, Beynac, Castelnaud, La Roque-Gageac and Domme.

Where is it?

FRANCESPAINITALYGERMANYAtlantic OceanMediterranean SeaDordogne and PérigordParisLyon

About this route

The Périgord, in south-west France, is the land of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers: green valleys, limestone cliffs, oak woods and villages of honey-coloured stone with steep stone roofs. Medieval castles watch over the river from every rock, a reminder of the wars between the French and the English. The Vézère valley is known as the cradle of prehistory, with painted caves such as Lascaux and troglodyte villages carved into the cliffs. It is also a land of food: walnuts, truffles, duck, cèpes and Bergerac wine, with busy markets in every town. The 3-day version covers Sarlat, the castles and villages of the Dordogne valley and the caves of the Vézère, the 7-day one starts in Périgueux and ends in Rocamadour, and the 15-day one adds Brantôme, the castle of Hautefort, Limeuil, Bergerac, the bastide of Monpazier and the Padirac chasm.

Short distances and quiet country roads. The riverside villages are narrow and very busy in summer: use the car parks at the entrance.

Updated

Weather and temperatures

Averages for Périgueux
  • SpringMar–May 7° / 19° Some rain
  • SummerJun–Aug 14° / 27° Some rain
  • AutumnSep–Nov 8° / 19° Some rain
  • WinterDec–Feb 2° / 11° Some rain

Mild, fairly wet climate with influence from the Atlantic: warm summers, pleasant springs and autumns, and cool, damp winters with some frosty nights. Rain falls all year, often as summer thunderstorms after hot days. In the valleys, mornings can be misty in spring and autumn, which makes the castles above the river look magical. July and August are warm, often 28–30 °C, and good for canoeing on the Dordogne.

Typical lows and highs (average night and afternoon temperatures). They change from year to year, so check the forecast before you go.

Route map

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Campsites, areas and parking come from OpenStreetMap. They can be incomplete or out of date: check before you go and always follow local signs.

Take this route with you

Dordogne and Périgord in 7 days

Google MapsWhole route with every stop WazeNavigate to the start: Périgueux WhatsAppShare this route with your travel companions

The TXT file needs an internet connection to collect the campsites and motorhome areas. Google Maps opens the stops in order (long routes are split into parts, because Google Maps allows 10 points per route). Waze only navigates to one place at a time, so each day also has its own Waze button. Routes are a guide, not a fixed plan: in most cases you can also drive them in a different direction and skip stops.

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Day by day

Routes are a guide, not a fixed plan: in most cases you can also drive them in a different direction and skip stops.

Dordogne and Périgord in 7 days

  1. Day1 PérigueuxArrival day
    Where to sleep tonight (4)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Périgueux
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • Périgueux

      The capital of the Périgord, with a white cathedral topped by Byzantine-style domes, a well-kept old town of Renaissance houses and the Roman remains of Vesunna, protected inside a modern glass museum.

      What to see (4)
      • Saint-Front cathedral A white cathedral with domes and turrets, on the Way of Saint James.
      • Vesunna Remains of a Roman house shown inside a glass museum by Jean Nouvel.
      • Old town Renaissance mansions, squares and lanes around the cathedral.
      • Markets Food markets on Wednesday and Saturday, with a truffle market in winter.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The old town is pedestrian. Use the motorhome area by the river or the car parks on the edge and walk in.

    Waze
  2. Day2 Montignac and Lascaux≈ 50 km · ≈ 1 h 5 min driving
    Where to sleep tonight (5)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Montignac and Lascaux
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • Montignac and Lascaux

      A riverside town on the Vézère and the home of Lascaux, the most famous painted cave in the world. The original is closed, but Lascaux IV is an exact full-size copy with the paintings of bulls, horses and deer made 20,000 years ago.

      What to see (4)
      • Lascaux IV The full-size copy of the Lascaux cave and a modern museum.
      • Montignac Old houses on wooden balconies over the Vézère.
      • Château de Losse A Renaissance castle on the river nearby.
      • Vézère by canoe A gentle river for a canoe trip between cliffs.

      With a motorhome or caravan: Lascaux IV has a large car park. Book your visit online in summer: time slots sell out.

    Google Maps Waze
  3. Day3 La Roque Saint-Christophe and Les Eyzies≈ 25 km · ≈ 35 min driving
    Where to sleep tonight (5)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Les Eyzies
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • La Roque Saint-Christophe and Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère

      A huge cliff with rock shelters and terraces where people lived from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages. Nearby, Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère is one of the prettiest villages in France, with a Romanesque church by the river.

      What to see (4)
      • La Roque Saint-Christophe A cliff city with terraces, rooms and a reconstructed lifting crane.
      • Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère A pretty village with a Romanesque church by the river.
      • Le Moustier A village that gave its name to a prehistoric culture.
      • Maison Forte de Reignac A fortified house built into the cliff.

    • Les Eyzies

      The capital of prehistory, a village under a cliff with the National Museum of Prehistory and some of the few painted caves still open to visitors, such as Font-de-Gaume, where places are limited.

      What to see (4)
      • National Museum of Prehistory Tools, art and skeletons from the Stone Age, under the cliff.
      • Font-de-Gaume One of the last original painted caves open to visitors; places are limited.
      • Grotte du Grand Roc A cave with fine crystal formations.
      • Abri Pataud A rock shelter with layers of prehistoric life.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The village is small and busy in summer. Use the car parks by the river and the motorhome area.

    Google Maps Waze
  4. Day4 Beynac and Castelnaud≈ 20 km · ≈ 25 min driving
    Where to sleep tonight (5)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Beynac and Castelnaud
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • Beynac and Castelnaud

      Two rival castles face each other across the Dordogne: Beynac, on top of a cliff above its village, and Castelnaud, which houses a museum of medieval warfare with real siege engines.

      What to see (4)
      • Château de Beynac A medieval castle on a cliff with views over the valley.
      • Château de Castelnaud A museum of medieval warfare, with siege engine demonstrations.
      • Beynac village Stone lanes climbing up to the castle.
      • Gabare boat trips Trips on traditional flat-bottomed river boats.

      With a motorhome or caravan: Both villages have paid car parks below the castle. The streets up to the castles are steep: walk up.

    Google Maps Waze
  5. Day5 La Roque-Gageac and Domme≈ 10 km · ≈ 15 min driving
    Where to sleep tonight (5)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Domme
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • La Roque-Gageac and Marqueyssac

      A village of golden houses squeezed between a cliff and the Dordogne, one of the most beautiful in France. Above it, the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac have thousands of clipped box trees and a viewpoint over the valley.

      What to see (4)
      • Village Houses squeezed between the cliff and the river.
      • Troglodyte fort Remains of a fort built into the cliff above the village.
      • Jardins de Marqueyssac Hanging gardens with clipped box trees and a belvedere over the valley.
      • Canoeing Paddle the Dordogne past the castles.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The road through the village is narrow between the cliff and the river, and parking is limited. In summer arrive early or park at Marqueyssac.

    • Domme

      A bastide on top of a cliff, with old fortified gates, a covered market hall above a cave and one of the most famous viewpoints over the Dordogne valley.

      What to see (4)
      • Belvedere One of the most famous views over the Dordogne valley.
      • Porte des Tours A fortified gate where Templars were once imprisoned.
      • Cave under the market hall A cave you enter from the covered market.
      • Bastide streets Golden stone houses and craft shops.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The gates of the old town are narrow. Use the car parks outside the walls; there is a motorhome area near the village.

    Google Maps Waze
  6. Day6 Sarlat-la-Canéda≈ 15 km · ≈ 20 min driving
    Where to sleep tonight (5)Campsites and areas within 10 km of Sarlat-la-Canéda
    Data from OpenStreetMap: check before you go.

    • Sarlat-la-Canéda

      A medieval and Renaissance town of golden stone, with narrow lanes, mansions, a cathedral and one of the best markets in France on Saturdays, full of walnuts, duck, cheese and, in winter, truffles.

      What to see (4)
      • Old town Medieval lanes, mansions and small squares in golden stone.
      • Saturday market One of the best markets in France, all over the old town.
      • Lantern of the Dead A mysterious round tower behind the cathedral.
      • Market hall in a church The covered market inside the old church of Sainte-Marie, with a panoramic lift.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The old town is pedestrian. Use the motorhome area or the car parks around the centre and walk in.

    Google Maps Waze
  7. Day7 Rocamadour≈ 45 km · ≈ 1 h driving

    • Rocamadour

      A pilgrimage village built on the side of a cliff above a canyon, with chapels, a castle at the top and a long stairway climbed by pilgrims. The view from L'Hospitalet, on the other side of the canyon, is breathtaking.

      What to see (4)
      • Holy city Chapels and the Black Madonna halfway up the cliff.
      • Grand Escalier The stairway pilgrims climb on their knees.
      • Ramparts The castle walls at the top, with views over the canyon.
      • L'Hospitalet viewpoint The classic view of the whole village on the cliff.

      With a motorhome or caravan: The road down into the valley is narrow. Park at L'Hospitalet, at the top, where there is a motorhome area, and walk down or take the lifts.

    Google Maps Waze

Distances and driving times are approximate, measured between stops. Use the Directions links for the exact road route.

Tips for motorhomes, campervans and caravans

Overnight stays · Book the caves · Canoe on the Dordogne · Markets and local food · Avoid the summer crowds5

  • Overnight stays

    In France, camping outside campsites (awning out, chairs, levelling blocks) is not allowed. Almost every village in the Périgord has a motorhome area (aire de camping-car), but many riverside car parks are closed to motorhomes at night. Always follow local signs.

  • Book the caves

    Lascaux IV, Font-de-Gaume and the Gouffre de Padirac have limited places, especially in summer. Book online a few days ahead, and check opening days outside the season.

  • Canoe on the Dordogne

    Many companies rent canoes and take you upstream by minibus, so you paddle back to your vehicle. The stretch between Carsac and Beynac passes the most beautiful castles and villages.

  • Markets and local food

    Try duck confit, foie gras, walnuts, cèpes, Rocamadour goat cheese and Bergerac wines. Sarlat's Saturday market is the best known; in winter, look out for the truffle markets.

  • Avoid the summer crowds

    In July and August, visit the famous villages early in the morning or in the evening, when the day visitors have gone, and keep the middle of the day for the river.

Frequently asked questions

5

How many days do you need for the Dordogne and Périgord by motorhome, campervan or caravan?

Three days are enough for Sarlat, the castles and villages of the Dordogne valley (Beynac, La Roque-Gageac, Castelnaud) and the prehistoric sites of the Vézère valley, with Lascaux IV. With seven days you can start in Périgueux and end in Rocamadour, adding Domme. Fifteen days let you include Brantôme, the castle of Hautefort, Limeuil, Bergerac, the bastide of Monpazier and the Padirac chasm at an easy pace.

Where can you sleep with a motorhome, campervan or caravan in the Dordogne?

In campsites, many of them by the river, and with a motorhome or campervan also in the motorhome areas (aires de camping-car) that almost every village has, often cheap. Caravans are usually only accepted in campsites. Camping outside campsites is not allowed, and many riverside car parks in villages such as La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are closed to motorhomes at night. The route map shows the campsites, motorhome areas and parking places near every stop.

When is the best time to visit the Dordogne and Périgord?

April to June and September to October: mild weather, green or autumn-coloured valleys and fewer people. July and August are warm and perfect for canoeing, but the famous villages and castles are very crowded and campsites must be booked ahead. Many sites and campsites close or reduce hours from November to March. In winter there are truffle markets in Sarlat and other towns.

Can you drive the Dordogne and Périgord route in reverse or skip stops?

Yes. The route is a guide, not a fixed plan: you can start in Rocamadour or Sarlat and drive north to Périgueux, begin at whichever stop is closest to you, or skip the stops that interest you less. Distances between stops stay the same in both directions.

Are the roads suitable for large motorhomes and caravans?

Yes, distances are short and the main roads are good. The road along the Dordogne at La Roque-Gageac is narrow between the cliff and the river, and the old centres of Sarlat, Domme and Rocamadour are steep or pedestrian: park at the edge and walk in. Some small country lanes are single track, so follow the main roads with large vehicles.

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